Jeju Field Fire Festival

"This world is on fire." 

"Burn baby burn."

"B-b-b-b-b-bonfire."

"Set fire to the rain."

"'Cause baby you're a firework."

Saebyeol Orem on Fire

*Insert more song lyrics about fire here*

ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ

I haven't been to many festivals in Korea but I really think I need to change that. Jeju's Field Fire Festival (제두들불축제) was a lot of fun with various events, perusable booths, and delectable street food.

While the festival is three days long, the highlight is on the second day when they set the hill ablaze. This year, that was Saturday, March 4th. My friend and I decided to hit up the festival early and we rolled in around 2 in the afternoon. The sun was warm--almost to the point of feeling too hot--and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll past the numerous tents. We saw face painting and colouring booths as well as other areas for crafts and games. Fresh produce, silly trinkets and other objects were available, too, but at the time, we were on a mission to see horsemanship and archery.

Booths lined the streets leading toward the Orem.

A slew of wind chimes that I liked to hit.

At the start of the horse show. 

One of the acrobatic feats. 

When we arrived at the horse ring, I was a little worried since it looked so small. And yet the performers used the space well. Around and around they went, twisting their bodies over and around their horses in intricate and amazing ways. I can only image how much practice and training it takes to be able to do some of those stunts--especially on a moving horse. And all that muscle! 

From the top of Saebyeol Orem, you get a killer view, and for a brief period, a mini-concert, too.

Looking back over the festival grounds.

Looking away toward the coast

Looking at us! :P

It was a long day, and the highlight was still to come. As the sun set, the temperature dropped drastically and my friend and I huddled for warmth as we waited for the burning to begin. I wish we had had a blanket like the groups of people camped out around us! As the day wore on, people arrived in droves and the pathways were soon packed. In fact, there were so many people that my data stopped working. ㅎㅎ. 

When the evening program finally began, it was quite the show. A parade of torches and fireworks built up until at last they ignited the field. It seemed both slow and fast as the fire ate through the dead, dry grasses. The reason for the festival is to celebrate (in a way) the coming agricultural season. In burning the old grasses, we also burn away the weeds so that the year can start fresh. A very cleansing tradition.

Fireworks lighting up the night atop of Saebyeol Orem

More fireworks.

I feel so cool taking firework photos.

The Orem burning...

If you are lucky enough to find yourself in Jeju in time to check out this festival, I highly recommend it. Even if you can't see the orem burning, there are lots of other things to do and see. ^^ The traffic is gross (especially after the burning), but so worth it. (Definitely bring a blanket or really warm clothes for evening shenanigans!).

Love and Hugs 

Andeok-Myeon - Under the Dam (담아래)

Address: 서귀포시 안덕면 창천리 843-19
Address: 843-19 Changcheon-ri, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si
Website: http://underthedam.modoo.at/?link=ehbb9z52  
Vegetarian: Nope
Price Range: 15,000
Alcohol: They advertise Makkoli (막걸리; Rice wine) for sure
Hours: 11:00 - 17:00 (last order)
Parking: Nearby parking lots

One of my comfort Korean foods has proven hard to find in my area of the island while also a seemingly common food: the stone bowl bibimbap (돌솥비빔밥). In case you are not yet in the know, bibimbap is rice, vegetables, maybe a fried or raw egg, and (optional) meat served in a bowl with red chili paste (고추장; Go-chu-jang). It's a very simple, clean meal. The only difference with stone bowl bibimbap is that the dish is served in a hot stone bowl. As a result, the food stays hot longer and a layer of rice starts to go nice and crispy. Yum!

With the help of one of my friends, we found a somewhat nearby restaurant in Dae-pyeong-ri (대평리) that has a stone bowl bibimbap on the menu and decided to check it out.

Preface: this wasn't exactly the bibimbap I was looking for, but it was still a tasty and fun experience.

Welcome to Under the Dam (담아래; dam-ah-rae)!

This is a small restaurant with only a handful of tables. My friend and I beat the lunch rush by maybe 5 or 10 minutes and then they asked people to wait outside until a spot was ready.

As is the trend in small-scale Korean restaurants and cafes, the decor was très cute and the restaurant had a nice atmosphere.

Decorations on the wall of the restaurant

I often wonder where all these retro-looking (English) advertisements come from because I've seen them in a number of cafe/restaurants. Under the Dam also had a thing for flamingoes.

Ariel, chilling by the cash register.

No English menu was offered but here is the Korean one below. There are four main options. Following the menu from left to right, the first option includes shrimp and rice with egg and soy sauce. The second option is rice with kimchi and pork. Third is mushroom heaven and then the last option has a type of shellfish.

Under the Dam's Menu

While I would have preferred a traditional stone bowl bibimbap with more vegetables (and beef), the food was very satisfying. I especially liked the variety in the side dishes, which included brussel sprouts and eggplant. Those are not traditional side dishes that I've seen at other restaurants.

The side dishes.

My friend ordered the shrimp and rice with egg and soy sauce. The parts arrived separately and then you can mix however much rice you want into the sauce. I tried a bite and was surprised to say that I liked it, too.

Option #1 - Shrimp and rice with egg and soy sauce.

I ordered kimchi! Spicy rice for me. The bowl arrived with that delightful crackle and sizzle and I almost burned my mouth, so anxious was I to dig in. Very filling and satisfying.

Kimchi and Pork in rice.

After you've gotten as much rice as you can out of the stone bowl, you are left with the crispy remains along the bottom. For this, they give you hot water which you can slowly pore in. The water loosens the grains and makes it easier to eat. The consistency also becomes a bit more like a porridge, but not quite.

My friend scrapping out the rest of her rice.

This small restaurant was a nice find in one of the little coastal villages. It's a refreshing change in the day-to-day's going pace with just the right amount of comfort food.

Love and Hugs

Andeok-Myeon - Cafe Sagye 80°

Address: 서귀포시 안덕면 사계리 ~255-9

Address: 255-9 Sagye-ri, Andeok-Myeon, Seogwipo City
This restaurant is so new that it's not actually in the map software yet and I had to add it to google.
Serves Alcohol: Yes.
Vegetarian: They have pastas at dinner time, but I think they have meat.
Price Range: Max price for food is around 16,000 and beverages are under 6,000.
Hours: 10:30-23:00
Parking: Small lot and street parking.

Driving west from the SanBangSan Temple and voilà! Le Café!

Inside the Sagye 80°

I wanted to post about this cafe-restaurant sooner, but when I first went, they only had one menu item (I'm pretty sure my friend and I went only a week or so after they opened!). I also had trouble classifying it into the categories that I'm used to. I mean, it has all the beverage choices of a cafe with choice desserts, but then there are the more complex meals and a pub-like atmosphere. I spent a couple of hours here last week working on my laptop, too.

Definitely a versatile space.

Front Cash

At this point in time, I don't know if they have a menu written in English, but if you can sound out Korean syllables, a lot of the names are koreanized spellings of English words (for example: 브런치 becomes Buh-run-chi or Brunch and 카페모카 becomes Ca-pe Mo-ca or Caffe Mocha).

Aside from the beverages, they have a Brunch Menu available from 11 until 15:30 and then a dinner menu. Brunch items (according to the picture below) are Pork Cutlet, the Sagye 80° Brunch, and Morning Bread with tangerine jam. The dinner menu includes Cream Pasta, Tomato Pasta and again Pork Cutlet.

As they write the items on this black board, I wonder if that means that they will also play with their available items and experiment with some new ones, too.

What I do know is that it has a killer view.

View from the window of Sagye 80°.

 Most of the cafes or restaurants that I frequent in this area are right along the coast and I do love that, but as my friend and I climbed the stairs and found ourselves staring out these windows, I couldn't help but appreciate the genius of the location. This cafe offers a whole new perspective on an area that I love.

What's more, is that once warmer weather hits, it looks like they will also have that rooftop patio vibe going as well. Yes please!

Now for some food pictures (Why else would this matter, right? ㅋㅋㅋㅋ).

Pork Cutlet

Starting with the Pork Cutlet. The portion size was pretty good and my friend and I actually split one and still found it quite filling (especially as I also ordered a strawberry smoothy!). The breading was nice and crisp and the meat was really tender.

Brunch Set

Compared to North America standards, this brunch set might seem a little small, and a bit more expensive, but for more western-style food, the price is generally higher in Korea. Still, the food was filling and really delicious. I am also biased toward well-done taters and these were some good potatoes. 

Still, if you are looking for a new place to try as a one-off or a new place to haunt, definitely check out this cafe.

Until the next adventure!

Love and Hugs

P.S. Here are two more images of a couple beverages:

One of the "Ade" beverages. Reminder that in Korea this means carbonated.

Strawberry smoothy. Not the best I've had, but still good. 

Andeok-Myeon - Green Tea Noodles

Address: 서귀포시 안덕면 사계남로 195
Address: 195 Sagye-ri, Andeok-Myeon, Seogwipo
Vegetarian: Not sure. I think all broths are animal based.
Price Range: One bowl for 7,000.
Hours: Exact Hours, unknown but I have been for both lunch and dinner.
Parking: 5-6 spots out front. Street parking available.

If you live in the GEC and you have driven to cafes/restaurants with friends or on your own, you have probably passed this small restaurant. Maybe you knew what it was, but maybe, like me, you had no idea what kind of gem hidden under your nose. I've been here a few times now and love not only the food but the warm people who prepare it for you.

The front of the restaurant is void of food pictures unlike many other restaurants in Korea.

In English, the name sounds like "Lee-Han-Kal-Guk-Soo" and this is a noodle restaurant. Specifically Green Tea Noodles. The first floor of the building is the restaurant while above is a guesthouse/pension. The restaurant is divided into two main rooms--a seating area next to the kitchen and then a larger area next to a small greenhouse and pond (super nice in warmer weather!).

Kitchen Area (also selling jams, honeys and tangerine chips).

Inside the greenhouse area, sit beside this small pond.

Upon hearing "Green Tea Noodles," you might think that it's a little strange, but trust me, it's delicious. The noodles have a slight green colour and a hint of flavour but it is not overwhelming and balances out the taste in the dishes. When I was last there, I got to see how the cook freshly cut my noodles before preparing them in a pot. So cool.

Currently, they have three main dishes:

• Kongguksu (콩국수). A seasonal dish with a soy milk broth. I haven't had this one yet but I hope to try it eventually.

• Deul-Ggae Kal-Guk-Su (들깨 칼국수). I've been trying to find out what "Deul-Ggae" is and and I think it translates to Perilla Seeds, but then I don't really know what those are either. I really like this one, though, and have had it a few times.

Bowl of "Deul-Ggae" Green Tea Noodles. 

I was so eager to eat that I quickly scooped some into my bowl.

• Bo-Mal Kal-Guk-Su (보말 칼국수). I don't know what the official name is in English, but Bomal refers to a small crustacean/sea-shell creature. The broth has more of a fish flavour, too. I have had this one and enjoy it occasionally, but not as much as the "Deul-Ggae."

Bomal Noodles, garnished with seaweed.

The portions are on the larger end and you could easily split one with a friend (or try two between 2-3 people) and get coffee or ice cream after. (Just walk down the street to Salon de 소자 38 or to another nearby coffee shop!).

What I really like about this restaurant is that it's not something I've seen a lot of other places. I mean, I have been to a number of different noodle restaurants around Korea, but I have visited only one other restaurant with Green Tea noodles. It's a fun change and if you can, definitely give it a chance!

Until next time,

Love and Hugs.

My Homestay-Like Experience in Cheongju

We reach many times in our lives when we have to make a choice. To go left, or right, per-say. For me, one of those moments occurred as I landed at the Cheongju (청주) airport. As I opened my Kakao and prepared to send a message to my Airbnb, I had two options: send my message in English or in Korean.

My Korean is still basic at best and I am much stronger at reading and writing (especially when I can translate a word here or there). But living in an English community at my school, I rarely get the chance to challenge and practice my ability. So I constructed my messages and hit send, opening the door for further communications.

No regrets.

When I arrived, my host greeted me in Korean, but said she could explain everything in English if I'd prefer. I didn't correct her. While I didn't understand everything she said to the T, I got the meaning--bathroom over here, kitchen through the door, and so forth.

That evening, as I was filling my water in the kitchen, I met the Father with a couple of his friends. After hearing about my plans to go to Sangdang Sanseong Fortress (산당산성), he suggested we all go together. All of a sudden, plans are being made and it's no longer just me. The next day, we piled into a giant van and headed up into the mountains. Seven adults and three children; the language of the day was Korean.

Oh Boy.

The mountainous and snow-dotted view.

The day was cold, but the kind of cold that makes the air extra clear and the sun seem that much brighter. Really, it was great hiking weather and I was lucky to have good company. The family brought a couple toboggan-like objects and every time we found a slope covered in snow along the encircling remains of the castle wall, they were quick to take a slide.

View of Cheongju in the distance.

Everyone included me in their conversations and spoke slowly (or repeated when I had trouble). Until now, I've had a lot of one-on-one language exchange experiences. It's been frustrating at times when you need to maintain the conversation but you (or your partner) don't yet have the language skills to do so. In this situation, I was free to listen and follow along and I found that I could understand a lot more than I thought. There was a lot less pressure and I found I could add more at times, too.

The youngest three of my new friends.

After hiking came lunch and then we all drove back for tea and fruit. I was definitely exhausted by the end of the day, but I also had a lot of fun.

Another evening, again because of a random conversation in the kitchen, I was asked if I wanted to go up to "Pizza Hill" before I checked out the next day. (The name "Pizza Hill" is merely how the father referenced these round, stone smoke ovens that used to be used for signal fires and now look like they could make a good pizza). It was almost 9:30pm at this time. The conversation quickly shifted from, "Do you want to go early tomorrow morning? 6am? 7am?" to "Let's go in 10 minutes."

So once more a bunch of us piled into the van and headed up into the mountains. Due to a slippery road, we left the van behind and walked carefully up the slope. Although cold, it was definitely worth it to see the glittering city lights and the "pizza ovens." If only the clouds had cleared so that we could see the stars, too.

Silhouettes against the night sky!

Definitely one of my best experiences at an Airbnb and I hope that I can go back and visit these new friends again. By then I hope I can say more in Korean, too.

Love and Hugs.